Provence.

EUROPE/FRANCE/43.8352° N, 5.4474° E

The wind strips the sky clear by ten in the morning, scouring the limestone ridges of the Alpilles until everything looks razor-sharp. Down in the valleys, orchards give way to dry terraces of Grenache and olive groves rooted in white gravel. It is a working landscape of butcher shops, Roman aqueducts, and market stalls piled with tapenade and goat cheese, running from the Rhône river plain east into deep canyon country.

Last updated 1 Sept 2026

Field notes

Photographs · Wikimedia Commons

What Provence is about

Twelve ways to read the region. Pick a town below and you can turn any of these into a timed 1, 2 or 3 day plan.

WEEKLY MARKETS

Stock up on Banon goat cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves, Cavaillon melons, and cured saucisson at Apt, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, or Saint-Rémy.

WINE & VINEYARDS

Taste peppery Syrah and Grenache blends in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, crisp Bandol Mourvèdre rosés, and mineral whites from Cassis hillside estates.

ROMAN ANTIQUITIES

Walk through the intact first-century arena in Arles, the theatre in Orange, and the three-tiered arches of the Pont du Gard aqueduct.

HILL VILLAGES

Wind past drystone bories into perched medieval settlements like Ménerbes, Bonnieux, and Gordes along the steep north face of the Luberon.

LOCAL SEAFOOD

Order true bouillabaisse around Marseille's Old Port, simmered with rockfish, rascasse, saffron broth, and thick garlicky rouille croutons.

COASTAL WALKS

Follow the steep white limestone trails threading above turquoise saltwater inlets between Cassis and Marseille across the Massif des Calanques.

MODERN ART

Trace Cézanne's Mont Sainte-Victoire near Aix, Van Gogh's asylum cloisters in Saint-Rémy, and light installations inside Carrières des Lumières.

WILD LANDSCAPES

Track flamingos across Camargue salt marshes, or hike along the deep limestone rim above the Verdon Gorge's bright turquoise river water.

OLIVE OILS

Sample fruity green and black AOC olive oils pressed from Salonenque and Grossane varieties in the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence mills.

REGIONAL COOKING

Savor slow-cooked beef daube scented with orange peel, fragrant vegetable pistou soup, and warm socca flatbread cooked over wood fires.

ABBEYS & CLOISTERS

Tour the spare Cistercian stone arches of Sénanque, Silvacane, and Le Thoronet, built in tranquil wooded valleys during the twelfth century.

LAVENDER VALLEYS

Drive through purple rows of fine lavender and lavandin across the Valensole plateau and around Sault below Mont Ventoux in midsummer.

Where to go in Provence

The bases worth booking. Each one has its own field guide with 1, 2 and 3 day itineraries.

  1. 01
    Avignon

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Explore the cavernous fourteenth-century Papal Palace and walk the famous half-ruined bridge over the Rhône.

  2. 02
    Aix-en-Provence

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Wander shaded plane-tree boulevards, thermal mossy fountains, and Cézanne's preserved hillside painting studio.

  3. 03
    Arles

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Stand inside the two-tiered Roman amphitheatre and trace the sunlit courtyards painted by Vincent van Gogh.

  4. 04
    Marseille

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Bite into spicy fish soup along the gritty Old Port before climbing the narrow lanes of Le Panier.

  5. 05
    Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Browse Wednesday market stalls and walk the Roman ruins of Glanum beneath jagged limestone crags.

  6. 06
    Gordes

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Take in cliffside stone houses and use it as a base for morning visits to Sénanque Abbey.

  7. 07
    L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Rummage through sprawling antique stalls alongside mossy waterwheels churning in clear river canals.

  8. 08
    Cassis

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Drink mineral white wine right on the quay before taking the trail into the steep white Calanques.

  9. 09
    Roussillon

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Hike through red and gold ochre quarries carved into pine-forested cliffs in the Luberon.

  10. 10
    Vaison-la-Romaine

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Cross a single-arch Roman bridge to compare extensive ancient town excavations with a high medieval quarter.

  11. 11
    Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

    PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D'AZUR / FRANCE

    Shop for glazed faïence ceramics under limestone cliffs flanking the entrance to the Verdon Gorge.

What to do in Provence

Provence stretches from the Rhône delta through the Luberon hills to the Southern Alps, shifting between rugged limestone ridges and fertile vineyard plains. Days here follow the rhythm of the morning market, a long terrace lunch anchored by garlic aioli and rosé, and quiet afternoon strolls. It suits independent travellers who enjoy slow road trips, Roman history, simple seasonal cooking, and walking between perched stone villages.

When to go to Provence

May and June bring wild thyme, mild hiking weather, and blooming lavender fields before peak heat. July and August draw dense crowds and high temperatures, while September and October offer grape harvests, golden light, and warm seas without the gridlock. Winters are quiet and crisp under fierce Mistral winds.

Getting around Provence

High-speed TGV trains connect Avignon, Aix, and Marseille in under thirty minutes. Exploring the perched hill villages of the Luberon, the Alpilles, or the Verdon Gorge requires a rental car. Expect winding two-lane departmental roads, tight village parking, and drives of forty to ninety minutes between main hubs.