The Italian Riviera.

EUROPE/ITALY/44.3218° N, 8.5862° E

Slate hills plunge straight into the Ligurian Gulf, dividing this narrow crescent into two distinct flanks around Genoa. To the west lies the sandy Riviera delle Palme; to the east, dry-stone terraces drop abruptly toward the water in the Cinque Terre. The days here run on maritime salt, Taggiasca olive groves, and the sharp green bite of morning-pounded pesto eaten from greasy greaseproof paper beside the slipway.

Last updated 1 Sept 2026

Field notes

Photographs · Wikimedia Commons
Europe / Italy44.32°N 8.59°E
The Italian Riviera — Palazzo Riviera Sanremo
Palazzo Riviera Sanremo
The Italian Riviera — Parco naturale regionale di Portofino - cliffs on the Italian
Parco naturale regionale di Portofino - cliffs on the Italian
The Italian Riviera — The Riviera - or, The coast from Marseilles to Leghorn
The Riviera - or, The coast from Marseilles to Leghorn

What The Italian Riviera is about

Twelve ways to read the region. Pick a town below and you can turn any of these into a timed 1, 2 or 3 day plan.

LOCAL SEAFOOD

Fishermen land anchovies at Monterosso, red mullet in Camogli, and sweet deepwater prawns off the docks of Santa Margherita.

REGIONAL WINE

Steep dry-stone terraces yield salty Vermentino and Pigato, alongside rare reds made from Rossese di Dolceacqua.

COASTAL WALKS

The Sentiero Azzurro links the cliff towns, while high ridge trails over the Portofino peninsula stay quiet and shady.

STREET FOOD

Bakeries turn out oily focaccia genovese at dawn, paper cones of fried seafood in Sestri Levante, and chickpea farinata.

HILL VILLAGES

Inland paths climb past olive mills to fortified hamlets like Apricale, Dolceacqua, and Cervo, well away from the train.

MARITIME HERITAGE

Genoa preserves centuries of naval clout in its caruggi alleys, grand Palazzi dei Rolli, and the Porto Antico docks.

PASTA TRADITIONS

Hand-twisted trofie and flat testaroli come coated in mortar-ground basil pesto, green beans, and waxy boiled potatoes.

BOAT TRAVEL

Public ferries cross the Gulf of Poets to Portovenere, skirting past sea cliffs that make road travel feel pointlessly slow.

PUBLIC SQUARES

Harbour piazzas in Vernazza and Camogli serve as communal living rooms where locals sip Bianchetta Genovese at dusk.

PRODUCE MARKETS

Mercato Orientale in Genoa brims with small violet artichokes, bundles of young basil, and tubs of salted anchovy fillets.

BAKING & CHEESE

Recco specializes in paper-thin focaccia col formaggio, blistered in wood-fired ovens and oozing warm, molten crescenza.

SEASIDE ARCHITECTURE

Pastel trompe-l'œil facades line the waterfronts, designed originally to help returning sailors spot home in the sea mist.

Where to go in The Italian Riviera

The bases worth booking. Each one has its own field guide with 1, 2 and 3 day itineraries.

  1. 01
    Genova

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    Genoa anchors the coast with working docks, tangled caruggi alleys, and unpretentious trattorias serving warm farinata.

  2. 02
    Vernazza

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    Pastel houses cluster around a natural cove where evening crowds drink Vermentino on the stone breakwater.

  3. 03
    Camogli

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    Tall painted houses line a pebbled beach where local boats still haul daily catches of anchovies and mullet.

  4. 04
    Santa Margherita Ligure

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    An easygoing base with leafy promenades, steady ferry connections, and dependable red prawn trattorias.

  5. 05
    Portovenere

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    Striped Gothic churches guard the rocky entry to the Gulf of Poets, accessible easily by regional boat.

  6. 06
    Sestri Levante

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    Two curving bays cradle a relaxed old quarter lined with bakeries, wine bars, and sandy swimming spots.

  7. 07
    Monterosso al Mare

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    The largest Cinque Terre village offers a proper sandy beach, lemon groves, and reliable fried anchovy cones.

  8. 08
    Manarola

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    Steep terraced vineyards spill directly into the village, famous for sweet Sciacchetrà wine and deep-water swims.

  9. 09
    Noli

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    A quiet medieval fishing enclave on the western coast with stone towers, arcaded lanes, and fresh fish stalls.

  10. 10
    Finalborgo

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    Set slightly back from the sea, this walled village draws rock climbers, cyclists, and quiet evening dinners.

  11. 11
    Dolceacqua

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    A dramatic humpbacked stone bridge and ruined castle frame this inland village, home to rich Rossese red wine.

  12. 12
    Recco

    LIGURIA / ITALY

    The culinary stop on the eastern coast, devoted entirely to blistering sheets of molten, cheese-stuffed focaccia.

What to do in The Italian Riviera

The Italian Riviera is a 300-kilometre ribbon of cliffs, olive terraces, and salt-scrubbed ports curving from France down to Tuscany. Life follows the rhythm of train arrivals, morning fish landings, and mid-afternoon swims off flat rocks. It suits travellers who prefer walking shoe leather, small trattoria tables, and sea air over manicured resort luxury, provided you do not mind tackling steep stone stairways.

When to go to The Italian Riviera

May and September offer warm water, quieter trains, and mild hiking temperatures. July and August bring dense crowds and fierce midday heat. Autumn rainstorms can close cliff trails without warning, while winter turns the harbours sleepy and grey.

Getting around The Italian Riviera

Leave the rental car behind. The coastal railway runs constantly through tunnels and connects almost every town between Ventimiglia and La Spezia. Ferries run between spring and autumn, offering the best views of the cliffs for only a few euros more.