Chiu Chiu sits thirty-three kilometres northeast of Calama along Route 21, an easy forty-minute drive across the high desert scrub. The village is known for its 1611 adobe church roofed in cactus wood and its deep agricultural roots along the Loa River valley. Chiu Chiu is worth visiting if you want to study early colonial church craft and eat traditional Atacameño corn stews without tour buses. Look elsewhere if you expect evening nightlife, paved resort amenities, or a wide selection of hotels.
Last updated 28 Oct 2026
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Life in Chiu Chiu moves around the sunlit Plaza de Armas and the slow waters of the Rio Loa. You come here to see the quiet endurance of an oasis town that has farmed corn in arid soil for a thousand years. The day revolves around touring the historic church, lingering over a heavy plate of braised goat or llama stew, and walking the canyon margins. It suits independent travellers who prefer quiet dirt roads to packaged desert excursions.
Start your morning inside Iglesia de San Francisco before the desert heat peaks. By noon, take a table at a local comedor for a bowl of patasca and fresh bread. Spend the afternoon walking the stone ruins of Pukará de Lasana eight kilometres north, then return to Chiu Chiu at dusk to watch the light fade over the church towers. Select 1 Day above to see it.
A second day lets you follow the green corridor of the Rio Loa into the Lasana valley. Seek out ancient petroglyphs etched into the canyon cliffs and stop for roasted river trout or llama steaks at a family farmstead. Finish with a late afternoon loop around the tranquil waters of Laguna Inca Coya. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
With three days, venture further up Route 21 toward the salt flats and volcano views near Caspana and Ollagüe. You gain time to acclimatise to the altitude, chat with valley farmers about their stone irrigation canals, and enjoy dark night skies in the plaza without having to rush back to Calama.
Iglesia de San Francisco dates to 1611, featuring thick adobe buttresses, leather-tied cardon cactus ceiling beams, and a simple twin-towered facade.
Order patasca, a slow-simmered hominy stew made with llama meat, pork, potatoes, and local oregano served piping hot in roadside family comedores.
Pukará de Lasana sits eight kilometres north, preserving twelfth-century stone ramparts, granaries, and defensive quarters above the canyon floor.
Petroglyphs at Lasana and nearby rock shelters show caravans, llamas, and shamans carved into sandstone walls by pre-Inca Atacameño herders.
Laguna Inca Coya is a deep saline sinkhole wrapped in local folklore, perfect for a quiet afternoon walk along the reeds five kilometres out.
Walk the terraced Loa River banks to see small plots of sweet choclo corn, alfalfa, and garlic fed by centuries-old canal irrigation systems.
Sample chañar syrup drizzled over cheese, roasted maize kernels, and pungent rica-rica herb brewed into restorative herbal infusions.
Clean desert air at 2,500 metres offers exceptional night skies across the village square, unbothered by commercial light pollution.
The Rio Loa gorge north toward Lasana provides flat dirt paths between red volcanic rock walls and green cultivated river bottoms.
Local weavers sell un-dyed llama wool shawls, woven belts, and small cactus-wood carvings directly from home workshops near the plaza.
Head northeast along Route 21 to the high Andean outpost of Ollagüe or detour into Calama for banking and vehicle repairs.
Spend an hour on the sunlit benches of Plaza de Armas watching school children, quiet farm trucks, and swallows circling the white bell towers.