





Sitting a four-hour 4WD drive northeast of Maun, Khwai is a community concession bordering Moremi, known for dense leopard populations and unfenced riverfront tracks. Village trusts manage these floodplains, permitting off-road tracking and night drives that formal parks forbid. Khwai is worth visiting if you want self-guided 4WD tracking, night game drives, and wild riverfront camps. Look elsewhere if you require paved highways, air-conditioned dining rooms, or reliable mobile reception.
Last updated 1 Oct 2026
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Life in Khwai runs on the rhythm of the river and the sun. There is no town centre, just a scattering of homesteads and open wilderness where elephants wander across tracks. Mornings belong to tracking big cats before the heat peaks, afternoons to resting in camp, and evenings to spotlighting predators along the water. It suits self-reliant drivers and wildlife watchers who prefer raw, unfenced bush to manicured lodge lawns.
Start before dawn along the Khwai River loop watching for leopards on low branches. Break for midday shade with tinned provisions or a camp lunch at Magotho. As dusk falls, turn on the red spotlight along the marsh to track hyenas and hunting lions, logging roughly thirty rugged kilometres over four bumpy hours. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Cross the rustic log bridge at North Gate into Moremi for a morning around Dombo Hippo Pools. Return to Khwai village by late afternoon to meet local basket weavers, then simmer slow beef potjie over mopane wood coals while listening to hippos grunt from the riverbanks. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
A third day allows for slow exploration on foot or by mokoro canoe along the tranquil Khwai backwaters. Glide through water-lily channels with a local guide, then spend the afternoon staking out the dry mopane fringes for rare roan and sable antelope that avoid vehicle traffic.
Follow wild dog packs and leopards through mopane woodland and acacia scrub, where community rangers read tracks in soft Kalahari sand.
Board a traditional wooden or fiberglass mokoro to glide quietly past water lilies and submerged pods of hippos along the Khwai River channels.
Tackle deep sand tracks and river crossings around Hippo Pools and Magotho campsite, requiring low-range four-wheel drive and deliberate throttle.
Head out after dusk with a red-filtered spotlight to locate nocturnal hunters, from spotted hyenas and genets to leopards stalking lechwe.
Pitch tents beneath leadwood trees at Magotho Camp without fences or running water, relying on a shovel, cast-iron pot, and deadwood fire.
Stew beef seswaa slowly in a three-legged potjie over mopane coals, served with stiff maize pap and savoury chakalaka relish after sundown.
Scan riverine fig trees and reed beds for Pel's fishing owls, carmine bee-eaters, and wattled cranes feeding in shallow seasonal lagoons.
Step out on foot with local Bugakhwe guides to identify animal spoor, edible tubers, and medicinal bark away from vehicle engines.
Inspect coiled palm-leaf baskets dyed with natural roots and bark by women weavers in Khwai village along the concession's edge.
Observe how seasonal floodwaters from the Angolan highlands fill the Okavango's eastern fingers, drawing herds of red lechwe and sable.
Charter a small Cessna from Khwai River airstrip to see elephant pathways and delta channels cut sharply through dry mopane forests.
Cross North Gate into Moremi Game Reserve to explore Dombo Hippo Pools and the sweeping mopane plains of the eastern delta perimeter.