The Mediterranean rattles the grey limestone pebbles along the Baie des Anges every few seconds, a sound you hear before you see the water. Behind the Promenade des Anglais, Vieux Nice narrows into a grid of ochre alleys where bakers shovel out hot, blistered socca onto paper sheets. It was Italian until 1860, and you taste it in the Swiss chard pies, the salted anchovies, and the stubborn pride of the kitchen crews.
Last updated 28 Aug 2026



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Nice divides neatly between the salty grit of the port and the Baroque sprawl of the old town. Days naturally revolve around morning market runs on Cours Saleya, brisk walks along the Promenade des Anglais, and leisurely lunches of farcis and cold rosés. It suits curious eaters, independent walkers, and anyone who appreciates a city that remains a hardworking port first and a holiday escape second.
Start early at Cours Saleya for coffee and fresh pissaladière before climbing Castle Hill on foot. Descend into Vieux Nice for lunch at a no-fuss bistro serving daube ravioli. Spend the afternoon around Port Lympia, then grab a glass of local Bellet wine near Place Garibaldi as the sun drops behind the hills. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Day two adds the green heights of Cimiez. Ride the bus up to the Roman ruins and the Musée Matisse, then walk down through the tree-lined avenues of Carabacel. For dinner, head away from the waterfront toward the Libération market district for fresh grilled sardines and local natural wines. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
A third day allows for the coast. Take the coastal trail around Cap de Nice to Villefranche-sur-Mer for lunch right on the water, then ride the local train back. If mountain air sounds better, board the Train des Pignes out to Entrevaux for medieval stone gates and river views.
Grab blistered socca from Chez Pipo, hot pissaladière layered with onions and anchovies, or a crusty pan bagnat dripping with olive oil and tuna.
Cours Saleya fills by seven with Cavaillon melons, courgette blossoms for frying, Menton lemons, and pungent wheels of mountain Tomme de Vache.
Matisse worked under this exact light in Cimiez; pair his museum with the vivid blue canvases and sculptures at MAMAC near Garibaldi.
Line-caught sea bass, grilled sardines, and squid fried crisp in cast iron, served without ceremony at portside tables along Quai Lunel.
Bellet AOC clings to the hills above town, pouring rare dry whites made from Rolle and peppery red Folle Noire alongside local sheep cheeses.
The Sentier du Littoral curves around the rocky base of Cap de Nice toward Villefranche, offering clear swimming coves and flat limestone ledges.
Rue Droite and Place Rossetti wind through Baroque chapels, small bakeries turning out tourte de blettes, and quiet cellar wine bars.
Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate shows off Italian Baroque stucco, while the domed St Nicholas Russian Cathedral marks royal winter migration.
Climb the stone stairs to the Colline du Château for panoramic views of the terracotta roofs, the port yachts, and the long sweep of the bay.
Order daube niçoise over thick ravioli, stockfish stewed with leeks, and stuffed petits farcis certified by the traditional Cuisine Nissarde label.
Place Garibaldi delivers red-shuttered facades and cold vermouth, while Place Masséna provides tram connections beneath checkerboard paving.
The seaside train reaches Villefranche in seven minutes, or climb into the pre-Alps on the Train des Pignes toward the walled town of Entrevaux.