





Sea salt cakes the fading Art Deco facades along the Corniche while vintage yellow trams rattle through Raml Station. Alexander's old capital has traded imperial grandeur for a gritty, literary seaside life. You come for the Mediterranean breeze, the monumental Bibliotheca Alexandrina, and long afternoons over grilled red mullet and freshly fried taameya in Anfushi. It is chaotic, faded, and remarkably welcoming to anyone who likes a proper harbour city.
Last updated 2 Sept 2026
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Alexandria runs along a twenty-kilometre waterfront arc, making the sea your constant compass. Days here follow a classic Mediterranean rhythm: quiet mornings at Roman ruins and museums, unhurried lunches over grilled fish in the Ras El Tin quarter, and late-afternoon tea at colonial-era cafes. It suits independent travellers who appreciate literary history, salt-faded architecture, and a refreshing break from the intensity of Cairo.
Start by 09:00 at the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa before taking a ten-minute cab to the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. Walk along the harbour for grilled sea bream at Greek Club, then reach the 15th-century Qaitbay Citadel by sunset to watch fishermen cast lines into the surf. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Dedicate your second day to the leafy Montaza Palace grounds at the eastern tip of town. Head back through Souq El Attarine to hunt for antique brass, stopping for spicy kebda iskandarani (Alexandrian liver) sandwiches at an alleyway stall in downtown Mansheya. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
With three days, take a morning taxi out to the austere desert war memorials and Commonwealth graves at El Alamein. Return to Alexandria for a slow evening over Turkish coffee and Greek pastries at Cafe Delices, watching the blue trams glide across Raml Station.
Select fresh sea bass, calamari, and red mullet by weight at Anfushi fish market stalls, grilled simply with cumin, garlic, and lemon.
Trace the quiet haunts of Cavafy and Forster around the poet’s preserved apartment on Sharm El Sheikh Street and the historic Cecil Hotel.
Descend the spiral staircase into the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa and visit the Roman amphitheatre uncovered in central Kom El Dikka.
Stroll the curving Corniche from Stanley Bridge past the Qaitbay Citadel, where the ancient Pharos lighthouse once guarded the harbour.
Tour Snohetta’s massive tilted disc at the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, housing millions of books and four distinct specialist museums.
Sip mint tea or strong Turkish coffee beneath high ceilings at Cafe Delices and Brazilian Coffee Stores, open continuously since the 1920s.
Queue alongside locals for crisp fava bean taameya, spicy Alexandria-style beef liver sandwiches, and warm, syrup-soaked basbousa.
Escape the coastal traffic among the date palms, Italianate pavilions, and coastal gazebos of the former royal Montaza Palace gardens.
Inspect the intricate woodwork of Abu El Abbas El Mursi Mosque and the marble interior of Saint Mark’s Coptic Orthodox Cathedral.
Navigate the bustling alleys of Souq El Attarine for spices, copper, vintage jewellery, and freshly roasted nuts sold by weight.
Ride the double-decker blue tram line or the classic yellow streetcars through downtown, an easy way to rest your feet for pennies.
Travel ninety minutes west across coastal dunes to the World War II battlefields, memorials, and Commonwealth cemetery at El Alamein.