The Atlantic rolls hard against the breakwater while green pastures tilt down into cobbled alleys. Comillas is an odd, wonderful collision of working fishing port, damp northern sea air, and extravagant nineteenth-century Catalan modernisme. You smell griddled squid, wet limestone, and sea salt. Gaudí dropped El Capricho here like a riotous Persian tower amid the hydrangea bushes, while the Sobrellano Palace looms grandly overhead. It is small enough to walk in twenty minutes and stubborn enough to stay itself.
Last updated 22 Aug 2026









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Comillas wraps around a series of low coastal hills between the Atlantic rollers and green pastures. Days divide naturally between morning strolls through nineteenth-century Catalan modernisme, unhurried lunches of grilled hake or squid, and lazy afternoons on the sand. It suits independent travellers who enjoy good walking shoes, rich regional history, fresh sea air, and quiet evenings in lively stone plazas.
Spend the morning exploring El Capricho and Sobrellano Palace before crowds peak. Walk ten minutes down to the harbour for a plate of grilled rabas and a glass of chilled white wine. Finish with an early evening walk past the cemetery up to Punta de la Garita for wide sea views. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Devote day two to the coast. Walk or cycle two miles west into Oyambre Natural Park for empty beaches and estuary birdlife. Return to Plaza del Corro de San Pedro for an evening of dry Cantabrian cider, cured anchovies, and rich stewed marmita de bonito at a neighbourhood tavern. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
A third day allows an easy trip inland into the green hills of Cantabria. Explore the medieval stone lanes of Santillana del Mar, tour the coastal cliffs around San Vicente de la Barquera, and return to Comillas for fresh quesada pasiega and a quiet nightcap by the harbour.
Tour Gaudí’s 1885 El Capricho with its sunflower tiles, then walk five minutes uphill to Domènech i Montaner’s towering brick and stone Sobrellano Palace.
Eat Cantabrian anchovies cured in Santoña olive oil, grilled rabas de peludín at the harbour taverns, and stewed bonito cooked with sweet onions and red peppers.
Follow the clifftop footpath from Playa de Comillas out toward the Punta de la Garita lookout for views of the Cantabrian Sea breaking over sandstone reefs.
Climb to the red-brick Pontifical University above town or inspect the carved gothic cemetery angel sculpted by Josep Llimona on old parish ruins.
Sit outside at Plaza del Corro de San Pedro for a glass of dry txakoli or crisp cider alongside small plates of grilled pimientos de Padrón and local cheeses.
Sample pungent Queso Picón Bejes-Tresviso blue cheese and creamy Quesuco de Liébana with crusty sourdough bread at the traditional grocery shops on Calle del Sol.
Spend quiet mornings walking the fine gold sand of Playa de Comillas, or head two miles west to the protected dunes and surf breaks at Playa de Oyambre.
Wander the small stone Puerto de Comillas, where fishing families once harpooned whales before the nineteenth-century shipping boom transformed the town.
Drive fifteen minutes west to the marshlands of Oyambre Natural Park or head inland to Santillana del Mar for eleventh-century Romanesque stone churches.
Pick up buttery sobaos pasiegos and dense quesada pasiega baked with fresh local milk from family-run bakeries along the cobbled lanes off Calle Mayor.
Stand at the wooden bar for poured sidra natural, plates of steamed mejillones, and spicy chorizo cooked in cider as the evening crowd gathers after sunset.
Walk through the monumental gothic arches of the Comillas Cemetery, where sea winds scour nineteenth-century Catalan statues overlooking the open ocean.