Laguardia rises abruptly from the Ebro valley floor, perched on a sandstone ridge beneath the limestone wall of the Sierra de Cantabria. Inside its fourteenth-century walls, cars are barred because the entire town is hollowed out by hundreds of subterranean wine cellars. You walk on cobblestones over aging barrels of Tempranillo, smelling damp stone and crushed grape skins. The fourteenth-century polychrome stone portal of Santa María de los Reyes remains remarkably intact.
Last updated 22 Aug 2026






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Laguardia is a compact, pedestrian-only hilltop town shaped entirely by defensive warfare and deep cellars. Life here moves between the high walls of Calle Mayor, shaded benches overlooking the Ebro plains, and subterranean tasting rooms carved into rock. It suits travelers who value unhurried meals, layered regional history, and walking everywhere in sturdy shoes.
Book an early guided entry to see the carved stone portal at Santa María de los Reyes, then walk under Calle Páganos into a deep cellar at Bodegas Casa Primicia. For lunch, order chuletillas grilled over sarmiento vines. Spend the late afternoon strolling the Paseo del Collado before evening pintxos in the plaza. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Spend your morning visiting the Bronze Age site at La Hoya just outside the walls, followed by the nearby Dolmen de la Hechicera. Cross the vineyards to neighboring Elciego for an afternoon tasting, then return for a slow dinner of stewed pochas beans and roast lamb along Calle Mayor. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
Head north up the winding road to the Balcón de La Rioja at Puerto de Herrera for sweeping views, then explore the historic cellars of Samaniego and San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Finish the trip sampling Arróniz olive oils and aged brandies at a family-run press in the valley.
Descend into carved medieval calados under the streets or taste carbonic maceration reds and oak-aged Tempranillo at Bodegas Casa Primicia on Calle Páganos.
Inspect the fourteenth-century stone portal at Santa María de los Reyes, retaining its original painted pigments, or the fortified tower of San Juan Bautista.
Order chuletillas de cordero grilled over dried vine cuttings, patatas a la riojana rich with chorizo and pimentón, and poached pears in spiced red wine.
Stand at the counter along Calle Mayor for morcilla pintxos, pimientos del piquillo stuffed with salt cod, and a short glass of young red crianza.
Walk out to the Bronze Age settlement and lagoon complex of La Hoya, then visit the megalithic burial chamber at the Dolmen de la Hechicera in Elvillar.
Circle the fortified perimeter along the Paseo del Collado for panoramic views across patchwork vineyards stretching to the Cantabrian mountain ridge.
Cross the valley to Bodegas Ysios, designed by Santiago Calatrava beneath the mountains, or Frank Gehry's undulating titanium roof at Marqués de Riscal.
Examine the thirteenth-century defensive walls, five stone entry gates including Puerta de Carnicerías, and the restored defensive Torre Abacial.
Drive ten minutes north to the mountain pass at Puerto de Herrera, or visit neighboring stone wine villages like Samaniego, Labastida, and Briones.
Stock up on Alavés olive oil pressed from Arróniz olives, local sheep cheeses from the hills, and jars of white pochas beans at small village grocers.
Step down steep staircases into private family bodegas carved out of rock below ground level, still housing oak casks and earthen fermenting vats.
Ride quiet backroads between Laguardia, Lapuebla de Labarca, and the Ebro riverbank, rolling past bush-trained vines and ancient dry-stone huts.