Begur sits high on a granite hump above the Baix Empordà coast, smelling of pine resin, wild fennel, and grilling sardines. You climb steep alleys between stone cottages and neo-classical mansions built by locals who made fortunes in nineteenth-century Cuba. Below, narrow coves bite into the slate cliffs. It is a working town with wind in its teeth, where lunch runs long and the fish tastes directly of the Mediterranean.
Last updated 22 Aug 2026






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Begur is anchored by a ruined hilltop castle and encircled by eight distinct coves. Days here split between the coastal paths and the shaded tables of Plaça de la Vila. It suits travellers who appreciate honest Catalan cooking, unhurried coastal walking, and nineteenth-century architecture over resort nightlife. You will need strong legs for the stone stairways and a car to reach the outer coves comfortably.
Start early with an espresso in Plaça de la Vila before walking up to the castle ruins for the morning light. Spend the afternoon swimming at Sa Tuna, followed by a late lunch of grilled rockfish at the cove edge. Return to town by dusk to walk past the Indiano mansions along Carrer de Sant Pere before an evening vermouth. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Use your second day on the southern coast. Hike the Camí de Ronda from Fornells down to the pale waters of Aiguablava. By late afternoon, drive ten minutes inland to the walled medieval village of Pals for an evening plate of arròs a la cassola made with local short-grain rice and cuttlefish ink. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
A third day lets you dig into the Empordà interior. Browse the terracotta workshops of La Bisbal in the morning, then head to the Romanesque lanes of Peratallada. Finish with a vineyard stop near Calonge to taste slate-grown Carinyena, returning to Begur for a quiet dinner of butifarra and white beans.
Order suquet de peix de roca simmering with scorpion fish and monkfish, or grilled red prawns from nearby Palamós seasoned with nothing but coarse sea salt and olive oil.
Walk the Camí de Ronda trail between Sa Riera and Platja del Racó. The path cuts across red cliffs and pine forests with steps down into turquoise coves in under forty minutes.
Track the nineteenth-century Cases d'Indians along Carrer Bonaventura Carreras, built by emigrants returning from Havana with frescoed porches and palm-shaded courtyards.
Climb the stone path to the eleventh-century Castell de Begur. The terrace yields thirty-mile views over the Medes Islands and the Pyrenean foothills in fifteen minutes from town.
Drink crisp white Empordà DO wines pressed from Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeu, or earthy reds paired with cured llonganissa at small taverns around Plaça de la Vila.
Skip the crowded sand and swim the clear, cold water at Aiguablava or Sa Tuna, where painted fishing shacks line the shingle and wooden skiffs rest on the stones.
Visit the Wednesday morning market in Plaça de l'Església for escalivada vegetables, local honey from the Gavarres hills, and goat cheeses from small farmhouses.
Step inside the sixteenth-century church of Sant Pere with its austere Gothic nave, built sturdy enough to shelter villagers during pirate raids from North Africa.
Drive ten minutes to Pals for arròs de Pals a la cassola, a rich dry rice simmered with cuttlefish, rabbit, and dark onion sofrito in heavy cast-iron pots.
Take the road inland to La Bisbal d'Empordà, where potters work red clay kilns that have produced glazed cookware and terracotta tiles since the eighteenth century.
Follow the GR-92 trail south through the maritime pines toward the headland of Cap de Begur, a rigorous two-hour trek over granite ridges and aromatic scrub.
Head twenty minutes north to the medieval stone villages of Peratallada and Monells for quiet stone arcades, Romanesque arches, and cold vermut from the barrel.