The road over the Cap de Creus peninsula twists sharply enough to discourage casual day-trippers. At the bottom sits a bay lined with whitewashed stone and slate-tiled alleys, still shaped by the tramuntana wind that roars off the Pyrenees. In the old core around Santa Maria, the stones underfoot are sea-smoothed pebbles laid on edge, designed to keep boots dry in wet weather. It smells of pine needles, salt spray, and anchovies curing in rock salt.
Last updated 22 Aug 2026






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Cadaqués runs on sea time and walking speed. The town wraps around a protected bay framed by olive groves and dark schist hills, drawing those who prefer rough coves and long lunches to resort sprawl. Morning starts with coffee near Platja Gran, afternoons belong to coastal trails or church steps, and evenings settle into late dinners of grilled sardines and chilled white wine along the waterfront.
Begin at the waterfront with a flat white and a warm tap de Cadaqués pastry. Walk the pebble alleys up to Santa Maria by ten for the baroque altar, then take the twenty-minute path north to tour Portlligat. Dine on fresh suquet de peix at a harbour tavern and end the evening listening to water lap against the hull of traditional wooden boats. Select 1 Day above to see it.
A second day lets you hike out toward the Far de Cap de Creus lighthouse, where mineral cliffs drop into turquoise coves like Cala Bona. Pack sturdy trainers and water. By late afternoon, wander the galleries along Carrer des Call before ordering DO Empordà wine and salted anchovies at a bar tucked off Plaça del Passeig. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
Three days gives you time to hire a car or bus over the crest to Sant Pere de Rodes, a romanesque monastery with sweeping coastal views. Return through El Port de la Selva for grilled cuttlefish, then spend a quiet final afternoon swimming off the slate ledges at Platja de sa Sabolla.
Follow the Camí de Ronda north past rocky inlets toward Portlligat. Wear stiff-soled shoes for the sharp schist cliffs, and pack water before leaving town.
Order suquet de peix, the classic Catalan fisherman stew simmered with rockfish and potatoes, or grilled red prawns from nearby Palamós dressed with sea salt.
Visit the labyrinthine seaside house in Portlligat, preserved with olive terraces and studio gear. Book entry tickets weeks ahead to avoid standing outside.
Taste crisp Garnatxa and Carinyena reds grown on steep slate terraces in the DO Empordà, where dry tramuntana winds naturally protect coastal vines from rot.
Trace centuries of maritime trade and pirate raids inside the 16th-century Church of Santa Maria, which anchors the highest ridge of the old fishing quarter.
Trek the arid trail out to the Far de Cap de Creus lighthouse, navigating bizarre wind-sculpted granite outcrops and steep drops down to Cala Jugadora.
Step inside Santa Maria to view the towering 18th-century baroque retable, carved in wood and gilded by Pau Costa, framed by views over the whitewashed bay.
Mondays bring the open-air market along Riera de Sant Vicenç for Alt Empordà goat cheeses, olive oil pressed from local Argudell fruit, and seasonal figs.
Skip sandy expectations for the dark slate shingle at Platja Gran or walk thirty minutes south to Platja de sa Sabolla, where clear water meets pine shade.
Stop at local bakeries for taps de Cadaqués, small sponge cakes shaped like champagne corks and soaked in sweet syrup, best enjoyed with strong morning espresso.
Explore small studios along Carrer des Call weaving traditional Mediterranean esparto grass and firing unglazed ceramics inspired by local coastal minerals.
Drive twenty minutes inland across the pass to El Port de la Selva for a quiet harbour lunch, or climb up to the Benedictine abbey of Sant Pere de Rodes.