You see the sandstone tower rising from the Baix Empordà plains before you smell the pine woods. Pals sits high above miles of rice fields, built of golden limestone hauled up in the ninth century. The Gothic archways of Carrer Major catch the Mediterranean breeze, and the air smells of crushed rosemary and woodsmoke. Walk past the church of Sant Pere toward the ramparts; below, the paddies stretch toward the sea, still growing the short-grain rice that feeds every clay cooking pot in town.
Last updated 22 Aug 2026






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Pals is a compact stone settlement crowned by the Romanesque Torre de les Hores. Life here splits cleanly between the high medieval quarter and the agricultural flats below. You come here to walk cobblestones polished smooth by centuries of workboots, eat serious rice dishes cooked over gas flames, and look out over pine groves to the Mediterranean. It suits independent walkers, slow eaters, and anyone who prefers quiet stone over neon resort strips.
Start early at the Josep Pla viewpoint before day-trippers arrive. Walk through the Portal de les Hores, then grab a midday table at a village tavern for arròs de Pals with rabbit and cuttlefish. Spend late afternoon driving ten minutes down to Platja de Pals for a walk along the dunes as the sun drops behind the Gavarres hills. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Dedicate your second day to the craft workshops of La Bisbal d'Empordà and the walled lanes of Peratallada. Come evening, head to the coastal rocks of Begur for a skillet of red Palamós prawns and a bottle of crisp Empordà white, taking the winding GI-650 road back through the dark pine forest. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
A third day lets you explore the Iberian hill fortress at Ullastret without watching the clock. Rent a bicycle to navigate the irrigation trails of the Basses d'en Coll nature reserve, stopping at Molí de Pals to buy freshly milled rice directly from the source before an unhurried dinner in town.
The flat fields below town grow bomba and bayo rice. Watch harvest machinery in October or visit the centuries-old Molí de Pals mill to understand the bedrock of Empordà cooking.
Order arròs a la cassola, a soupy rice stew browned in cast iron with cuttlefish, pork ribs, and bitter dark sofrito. Every local tavern has its own simmering stock pot.
Climb the eleventh-century Romanesque Torre de les Hores, inspect the Gothic portals along Carrer Major, and trace the defensive walls built to spot pirates off the coast.
Walk the Camí de Ronda trail north from Platja de Pals toward Sa Riera. The pine-shaded dirt path clings to granite cliffs over cold, clear Mediterranean water.
The surrounding DO Empordà hills produce robust Carignan and Grenache reds. Taste earthy natural wines poured straight from barrels in nearby cellars around Torrent and Fontclara.
Just down the road in La Bisbal d'Empordà, artisans throw red clay terracotta pottery and glaze decorative tiles as they have since the early eighteenth century.
Fish mongers and beach shacks serve grilled rockfish, Palamós prawns seared with coarse sea salt, and monkfish suquet simmered with garlic, almonds, and dried peppers.
Rent a gravel bike and ride the flat farm tracks through the wetlands of Basses d'en Coll out to the dunes of Platja de Pals. The route is quiet, signposted, and mostly level.
The church of Sant Pere incorporates fragments of a tenth-century temple, Gothic nave vaults, and an eighteenth-century bell tower rebuilt after regional wars.
Tuesday mornings bring farmers to the local plaza with goat cheeses, cured fuet, wild mushrooms, and baskets of sweet onions harvested from neighboring plots.
The Aiguamolls del Baix Empordà marshes harbor migrating grey herons and kingfishers among the reed beds and irrigation canals between Pals and the Ter river mouth.
Head ten minutes inland to Ullastret to walk the defensive stone ramparts and excavated granary silos of an Iberian tribal settlement dating back to the sixth century BC.