You cross the River Fluvià on an angular twelfth-century bridge that looks like a fortress having second thoughts about straight lines. Beneath the volcanic stone arches, water runs cold from the Garrotxa hills. Inside the walls, river mist hangs in narrow alleys paved with rounded cobblestones that test your ankles before lunch. Besalú earned its keep through iron and trade; today it offers quiet stone plazas, Catalan roast duck with pears, and a subterranean Romanesque mikveh by the riverbank.
Last updated 22 Aug 2026






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Besalú is compact, built around a bend in the River Fluvià and anchored by Plaça de la Llibertat. The town rewards a relaxed walking pace: mornings exploring Romanesque stonework and the medieval Jewish quarter, long lunches over plates of slow-braised pork and Garrotxa beans, and unhurried afternoons wandering arcaded streets. It suits travellers who appreciate preserved medieval urban design and regional cooking over hurried checklist touring.
Start by crossing the Pont Vell before tourist buses arrive, then book the morning tour of the twelfth-century mikveh. For lunch, take a table on Plaça de Sant Pere for roasted duck with pears. Spend the afternoon browsing olive-wood workshops along Carrer del Pont, then watch twilight settle over the Fluvià with a small glass of chilled Ratafia. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Use your second day to explore the Garrotxa volcanic park just ten miles west. Walk the paths through the Fageda d'en Jordà beech wood and hike down into the dormant Santa Margarida crater. Return to Besalú for dinner at a stone tavern, ordering grilled mountain lamb, local goat cheese, and a robust red wine from the neighbouring Empordà plains. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
A third day allows a scenic loop through the basalt-cliff village of Castellfollit de la Roca and the quiet medieval square of Santa Pau. Spend the late afternoon back in Besalú walking along the southern bank of the Fluvià, where kingfishers dart under the bridge arches and the town shows its quietest residential corners.
Walk the fortified Pont Vell, built in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, then inspect the portal carvings and stone hospital at the church of Sant Pere in Plaça Major.
Descend thirty-six steps beside the Fluvià to the twelfth-century mikveh, a Romanesque ritual bath discovered in 1964 and fed by natural subterranean river water.
Order ànec amb peres (duck stewed with sweet pears) or peus de porc alongside Garrotxa white beans, finished with dense crema catalana under burnt sugar.
Drink a glass of herbal Ratafia liqueur, macerated with green walnuts, nutmeg, and regional herbs, brewed every autumn across Garrotxa cellars and homes.
Step into the Benedictine monastery church of Sant Pere, consecrated in 1003, noted for its carved ambulatory capitals depicting lions and biblical figures.
Seek out village charcutiers for dried fuet, peppered llonganissa, and botifarra negra, dry-cured in the cool mountain drafts blowing off the Pyrenean foothills.
Browse workshops along Carrer Major where local woodworkers turn olive root into kitchen boards and wrought-iron smiths maintain medieval forging traditions.
Follow the dirt path skirting the Fluvià riverbed for unobstructed views of the bridge abutments and the wild fig trees growing out of ancient masonry.
Drive fifteen minutes west into the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone to walk through beech forests at Fageda d'en Jordà and hike the rim of Santa Margarida crater.
Sample semi-hard Garrotxa goat cheese, coated in natural grey mould and aged in mountain cellars, served with crusty pa amb tomàquet and olive oil.
Head twenty minutes up the road to Castellfollit de la Roca, perched on a basalt cliff, or the quiet stone hamlet of Santa Pau within the volcanic park.
Visit the Tuesday morning market at Plaça de la Llibertat for seasonal wild mushrooms, Empordà orchard apples, and wheels of farmhouse sheep cheese.