Granite dust gathers on your shoes well before you reach the sixteenth-century castle keep looking out over the Mediterranean. Begur sits high above the water, insulated by stone pine forests and the ornate nineteenth-century mansions built by emigrants returned rich from Cuba. Below lie jagged cliffs and small coves where fishermen still haul in rockfish for local rice pots. It feels aloof from the usual beach crowds, which suits an afternoon over cold Empordà white wine perfectly.
Last updated 31 Aug 2026



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Begur splits cleanly between its hilltop stone core and the wooded coves tucked along the shoreline below. Days organize themselves around morning walks along the ramparts or cliff paths, followed by long lunches anchored around local rice and cold bottles of white wine. It rewards independent travellers who prefer quiet alleys, nineteenth-century Indiano architecture, and unvarnished seafood over commercial seaside resorts.
Walk up to the eleventh-century castle early before the midday heat, then drop down the trail to Sa Tuna for lunch over grilled rockfish and tomato bread. Spend your late afternoon wandering the quiet Indiano streets like Carrer de Sant Josep, finishing with an aperitif in Plaça de la Vila. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Devote your second morning to the coastal path between Platja Fonda and Fornells, packing sturdy shoes for the stone steps. Afterwards, head to a village tavern for arròs a la cassola made with Pals rice and cuttlefish, resting in the shady square when the afternoon slows down. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
With three days, venture inland to explore the stone arches of medieval Pals and browse ceramic workshops in La Bisbal d'Empordà. Reserve the final afternoon for a slow swim in the clear shallows of Aiguablava before a quiet cellar tasting of local Empordà Carinyena.
Taste peix de roca (rockfish) simmered with saffron in an arròs caldós, or order red prawns grilled over salt down at Sa Tuna cove.
Walk Carrer de Bonaventura Carreras to study the neoclassical Indiano mansions built by town locals returning wealthy from Cuba.
Follow the red-and-white Camí de Ronda trail past maritime pines from Sa Riera south to the deep teal water of Aiguablava.
Sample crisp Empordà whites made from Garnatxa Blanca and Carinyena alongside toasted pan con tomate in family-run cellars.
Climb the ramparts of the ruined eleventh-century castle and explore the fifteenth-century defense towers on Carrer Sant Ramon.
Scramble down steep stairs to pebbled Platja Fonda or hire a wooden boat to reach sheltered coves inaccessible by road.
Browse the Wednesday morning market in Plaça de la Vila for salt-cured l'Escala anchovies, local goat cheeses, and Empordà honey.
Eat arròs a la cassola made with local Pals rice, cuttlefish, and bitter dark sofrito at quiet terrace tables away from the square.
Inspect hand-thrown terrissa pottery and glazed earthenware tiles produced in nearby La Bisbal d'Empordà workshops.
Drive fifteen minutes inland to the walled stone arcades of Pals and the Romanesque alleys of Peratallada.
Trek the forest loop through the Massís de Begur hills, connecting the watchtower ruins of Sant Ramon to remote cove viewpoints.
Dive the protected rocky seabed around the Ses Negres marine reserve, teeming with grouper, sea bream, and red coral reefs.