Yellow sandstone rises sharply above the low rice paddies of the Baix Empordà, holding a fortified hilltop intact since the fourteenth century. You walk up through Gothic arches along Carrer Major, past dry-stone walls and the Romanesque Torre de les Hores, catching breezes off the Mediterranean. The town earns its living down on the flats growing pearl rice, which local cooks simmer into rich, dark casseroles with cuttlefish and pork ribs. It rewards a slow climb and an unhurried appetite.
Last updated 31 Aug 2026


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The old quarter sits clustered atop Mont Aspre, compact enough to explore entirely on foot in a few quiet hours. Days here follow an honest rural rhythm: steep stone alleys in the morning, a long two-course lunch built around local rice, and an easy afternoon overlooking the plains from Mirador Josep Pla. It suits travellers who appreciate preserved stonework, serious regional cooking, and unhurried strolls without heavy commercial clutter.
Begin before the midday heat by climbing Carrer de l'Hospital to the Torre de les Hores and Sant Pere church. By one, take a shaded table for arròs de Pals simmered with cuttlefish and artichokes. Spend the afternoon cycling the flat perimeter paths around Molí de Pals, finishing with a glass of Garnatxa on Plaça Major. Select 1 Day above to see it.
A second day lets you head east to Platja de Pals for a morning walk along the sand dunes, followed by grilled sardines at a beachside chiringuito. Spend the late afternoon wandering through the stone-moated alleys of Peratallada, just ten minutes west, before dinner of duck with pears back in the village. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
With three days, take the coastal Camí de Ronda footpath into the pine-topped coves of Begur, or spend a morning exploring the Roman ruins at Empúries to the north. Settle into a cellar tasting across DO Empordà vineyards, followed by a leisurely evening at the Basses d'en Coll wetlands watching the sunset.
Seek out arròs a la cassola, a rich broth-thickened casserole made with the local round grain grown in the paddies below town since the 15th century.
Climb through the Romanesque Torre de les Hores and Gothic ramparts along Carrer Major, built from local sandstone between the 11th and 14th centuries.
Head to the Josep Pla viewpoint for unobstructed panoramic views stretching across the Empordà plains toward the Montgrí Massif and the Medes Islands.
Spend a calm morning at Platja de Pals, a broad stretch of golden sand lined with windblown pine trees and sand dunes, just four kilometres east.
Sample DO Empordà reds made from Carinyena and Garnatxa, paired with dry cured botifarra sausage at stone-vaulted taverns near Plaça Major.
Ride flat gravel paths winding through the wetlands and irrigated rice fields of the Molí de Pals, well marked for touring bikes and family rides.
Visit the Church of Sant Pere, which combines a tenth-century Romanesque base with a fourteenth-century Gothic nave and a baroque bell tower.
Browse the workshops along the approach roads selling glazed terracotta bowls, traditional porró jugs, and handmade olive wood cooking spoons.
Order mar i muntanya stews combining Palamós prawns and pork belly, simmered slowly in earthenware pots with crushed almond picada sauces.
Take a ten-minute drive inland to the moated lanes of Peratallada and the Romanesque church of Sant Feliu in neighbouring Canapost.
Spot herons, egrets, and migrating storks around the marshy fringes of the Basses d'en Coll nature reserve bordering the rice fields.
Follow the coastal Camí de Ronda trail north from Platja del Grau toward the rocky coves and pine cliffs of Begur and Sa Riera.