The air off the Sella River smells of wet limestone, woodsmoke, and fermenting apples. Cangas de Onís was the eighth-century seat of the Asturian kingdom, but today it functions as a working market hub. A medieval bridge carrying a reproduction Victory Cross spans the water, while street-level sidrerías pour cloudy natural cider from overhead. You come here to eat rich bean stews, buy pungent Cabrales cheese, and push up into the rugged Picos de Europa.
Last updated 22 Aug 2026




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Cangas de Onís splits its personality cleanly between mountain trail hub and stubborn food town. Everything lines the banks of the Sella River and spreads out from Plaza del Mercado. Mornings belong to boots, packs, and winding drives into the limestone high country. Evenings belong to loud sidrerías where cider splashes into glasses and plates of cured cheese hit wooden counters. It suits active travellers who prefer hearty cooking to quiet resorts.
Catch the 8:00 AM park bus up to the Covadonga lakes before the crowds arrive. Walk the circuit between Enol and Ercina, then drop down for midday prayers at the Covadonga shrine. Back in town by 2:00 PM, order fabada at a sidrería on Calle San Pelayo, then walk off lunch across the medieval bridge before an evening cider crawl. Select 1 Day above to see it.
Day two belongs to the Sunday market and the Sella valley. Buy Gamonéu cheese directly from shepherds, then drive twenty minutes to Arriondas to kayak down the river toward the coast. Dry off in Ribadesella for a dinner of grilled sea bream at the port, returning to Cangas to sleep under the cool mountain air. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
A third day lets you tackle the classic Cares Gorge trail starting from Poncebos, an eleven-kilometre footpath carved straight into sheer canyon rock. Return through Arenas de Cabrales to tour the natural cheese-curing caves of the valley, finishing with slow-cooked venison and frixuelos at a village tavern off the main road.
Sample blue Gamonéu smoked over beechwood, pungent cave-aged Cabrales, and creamy Beyos sold by local producers under the Sunday market arches.
Stand at wood tables in sidrerías along Calle San Pelayo where servers pour tart Asturian sidra from overhead to aerate the glass. Drink each shot immediately.
Trace the high limestone trails around Lake Enol and Lake Ercina in the Picos de Europa, starting early from the Buferrera parking lot to beat the park buses.
Eat fabada asturiana made with large dried white beans, smoked chorizo, morcilla, and cured pork belly, simmered slowly in heavy terracotta earthenware.
Visit the Holy Cave of Covadonga carved into the cliff face, the pink limestone neo-Romanesque basilica, and the eighth-century Santa Cruz chapel in town.
Rent a kayak in nearby Arriondas to paddle the Sella River downstream toward Ribadesella, a brisk three-hour run over mild grade-one and two rapids.
Browse the weekly open-air market surrounding the church for mountain honey, cured wild boar sausages, wooden clogs, and wheels of farmhouse cheese.
Walk across the fourteenth-century bridge built over Roman foundations, spanning the Sella River with its suspended replica of the historic Victory Cross.
Order cachopo, thin veal fillets stuffed with cured Serrano ham and melted cheese, breaded and fried, or slow-braised wild venison stewed in red wine.
Explore the subterranean limestone caves of the Güeña valley or venture underground in the nearby El Buxu cave to examine ancient rock engravings.
Drive thirty minutes down the river valley to coastal Ribadesella for grilled hake at the fishing port, or head south into the Amieva gorges for stone hamlet walks.
Finish meals with caramelized arroz con leche topped with a burnt sugar crust, or frixuelos, thin egg crêpes rolled with apple compote or pastry cream.