Varkala sits 45 kilometres north of Trivandrum, reachable in forty minutes by train. It is defined by red laterite cliffs dropping into the Arabian Sea and the ancient Janardanaswamy Temple. Varkala is worth visiting if you want to eat grilled seer fish on cliff paths, watch ancestral rites on Papanasam Beach, and surf mellow breaks. Look elsewhere if you expect lively nightlife, luxury resorts, or manicured heritage streets.
Last updated 18 Sept 2026
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Life here stretches along the top of the North Cliff, where a pedestrian path looks down on the Arabian Sea. Days move according to tides and heat: early surf sessions and temple visits, midday shade over iced lime juice, and sunset fish stalls displaying red snapper on ice. It suits independent travellers, surfers, and anyone who prefers quiet coastal rhythms and fish curry over organised resort itineraries.
Start early at Janardanaswamy Temple before the heat builds, then walk down to Papanasam Beach. Head up to the North Cliff for a lunch of meen pollichathu. Spend the afternoon swimming at Black Beach, then settle into a cliffside table for sunset and fresh grilled calamari as fishing boats light the water. Select 1 Day above to see it.
A second day lets you rent a scooter and ride five kilometres north to Edava and Kappil Beach, where the backwaters run parallel to the sea. Eat a traditional vegetarian sadya served on a banana leaf at a town mess hall, then spend late afternoon exploring the quiet fishing harbour at Odayam. Choose 2 Days to expand the plan.
With three days, take a thirty-minute drive south to Anjengo Fort and its 130-foot lighthouse, then arrange an unhurried wooden canoe ride through the backwater mangroves. Finish your stay with an unhurried Ayurvedic massage and a final pot of clay-cooked fish curry near Temple Junction.
Watch the day's catch arrive at Odayam Beach and order whole pearl spot (karimeen) or seer fish roasted in banana leaves with shallots and chili.
Visit the 2,000-year-old Janardanaswamy Temple dedicated to Vishnu, then observe morning ancestral bali rites conducted on holy Papanasam Beach.
Walk the brick pathway along the North Cliff south to Black Sand Beach, navigating narrow stairs and watching traditional wooden outriggers launch.
Rent a board at Black Beach or Edava for clean right-hand sandbar breaks, best from October to April when the offshore morning breeze holds up.
Book authentic Abhyanga oil massages or herbal steam baths at registered Ayurvedic clinics along the Helipad rather than tourist massage shops.
Hire a country canoe through the quiet canals of Kappil Lake and the historic 19th-century Varkala Tunnel connecting waterways to Kollam.
Seek out small town stalls for flaky Kerala parottas paired with spicy beef fry, egg roast, or crisp pazham pori banana fritters fried at dusk.
Take an auto-rickshaw to 17th-century Anjengo Fort, built by the English East India Company, and climb the adjacent British lighthouse.
Wander Edava and Odayam fishing villages at sunrise to see coir mat weaving, toddy tappers climbing palms, and beach seines hauled in by hand.
Browse the weekly markets around Temple Junction for Tellicherry black pepper, fresh green cardamom, local honey, and sun-dried kokum.
Escape the main cliff crowds by heading north past Odayam to quiet Kappil Beach, where the ocean meets a freshwater lagoon separated by sand.
Pull up a plastic stool at local thotukadas near the railway station for strong spiced chai poured from meter-high arcs alongside hot samosas.